No, Music City Isn't Just for Country Fans & Bachelorettes (Ugh)

Nashville is on the rise, y’all. I can say “y’all” now that I’ve been living here three years, right? And hey, if you thought traveling to Music City was just for country fans and so, so, so many bachelorettes (ugh), I don’t blame you. But it’s time to think again. Tennessee’s capitol is actually a fantastic place to travel — or as my Yankee heart now begrudgingly admits, live — with tiny humans in tow too. And yes, that holds true whether or not they’re pint-size Dolly Parton fans. But where are the best places to go when traveling to Nashville with kids?

From the food scene (elegant yet oh-so accessible) to the music scene (two words: Bluegrass. Brunch.) to the art museum with a kids section that beats anything Brooklyn has to offer, Nashville is the perfect place to bring a kid or four for a long weekend or longer. And its a rising hotspot city in U.S. travel for a reason — so get on down here before all the secrets are out.

Where to eat & drink

Traveling parents need restaurants that have it all: good food and good vibes, but above all plenty of chill. Because do you really want to bring a toddler into a hushed upscale establishment where you’ll only get glared at? On the other hand, quality is key; I’m not really into what passes for “family dining” in a lot of places (sorry, Olive Garden). And in Nashville, I find the best balance of quality and chill at Cafe Roze and Lou in East Nashville.

The former, founded by NYC expat chef extraordinaire Julia Jaksic, is an Instagrammable hotspot where you’ll find food that is as beautiful as it is delicious — my son is a fiend for the french fries. At the latter, owned by Mailea Weger (yes, I’m recommending only women-owned restaurants on purpose) lets you get your weird-wine fix at brunch (Lou is known for its contact wines, fermented wines, and more) while also snagging some banana pancakes any kid would fight for.

For caffeine, hit up Crema by the river (in a possibly imaginary neighborhood that Google Maps tells me is called “Rolling Mill Hill”) or the Barista Parlor coffee shop, with locations in the Germantown ‘hood as well as East Nashville. I’m often embarrassed to admit that I love Barista Parlor since their coffee is expensive, but it’s damn good, and my kid loves the pastries, so there we are.

Over in the Lockeland Springs neighborhood is the answer to my personal must-find everywhere I travel: the bar that won’t kick your child out. Urban Cowboy Public House is an offshoot (literally — it’s in the backyard) of Urban Cowboy B&B, a local boutique hotel in a renovated Victorian mansion, which is now famous nationwide for its hipster-maximalist design aesthetic; my son thinks he’s “friends” with the metal horse wall decor near the bathrooms. I recommend the bar’s grapefruit rosé situation, perfect for sipping on the patio by the fire (supervise kids by said fire, duh).

Where to shop

In the East Nashville (are you sensing a theme here?) the shops at Porter East have a bunch of options (for parents and kids alike) within spitting distance of each other, and another nearby family favorite is The Getalong, which hosts story hours, singalongs, kid crafting sessions, and more. Oh, and they’ll sell you a legit kid-sized ukelele in pretty much any color.

West across the river, Hillsboro Village is a great walkable neighborhood with a ton of local shops, including curated kids boutique Arcade and a Jeni’s ice cream location, both favorites with the little ones. And just around the corner, eateries Fido and The Pancake Pantry (which I’ve heard referred to as “a Nashville institution” more than once) are prime for refueling.

What to do & where to play

If you’re a traveling family, chances are you’re in the market for a park — or five. Two of my son’s favorites are Shelby Bottoms Park in East Nashville (complete with river trails, hummingbirds and a toy-filled kids play area) or head southwest for Radnor Lake State Park (and its turkeys, turtles, egrets and more).

Then there’s Cheekwood Estate and Botanical Gardens, which goes well beyond “park.” It’s a 1930s estate and Georgian mansion with 55 acres of gardens, wooded trails, greenhouses… and an art museum. Plus, Cheekwood always has a roster of seasonal programs that span all ages: weekend yoga in the garden and story time for kiddos; harvest beer garden with bluegrass music and a playhouse made of pumpkins; hot toddies and a holiday lights exhibit… you get the picture.

And speaking of art museums, the Frist Art Museum features rotating exhibits from local and international artists. A recent kid-fan favorite was the Frist’s exhibit for the 50-year anniversary of Eric Carle’s The Hungry Little Caterpillar. But perhaps the Frist’s best-kept secret is its classy kids section, the Martin ArtQuest Gallery, which lets kids learn about art in the most hands-on ways — from creating their own stop-motion movies to painting with watercolors to printmaking. (Confession: I have been known to use my kid as an excuse to do crafts.)

Looking for a non-museum indoor spot to take a tot? Don’t miss Saturday story time at The Bookshop. Joelle Herr began this lit-lady indie gem in a very small space in 2016, and it’s been so successful (no surprise given the East Nash population of literary ladies — and gents and kids) that she reopened it this fall in a larger but not at all overwhelming venue. Herr curates an always-remarkable selection of reads — from design to fiction to nature to kids to just plain beautiful books, period. And every Saturday, there’s a cozy children’s story hour with a local reader and/or musician. Kids listen enthralled; you browse books. Sold?

If your kids are well beyond the story time age, never fear: There’s a fantastic rainy-(or any-)day activity for tweens, teens and parents nearby at The Candle Bar, which, yes, is exactly what it sounds like: hand-poured, sweet-smelling souvenirs for all ages, plus BYOB for the grown-ups. As my neighbor said to me recently, “You know the economy’s good when they open up a candle bar down the street.”

Where to stay

In Nashville, Airbnbs are king — and I’m personally biased toward the family travel rental site Kid & Coe (hey, if I’m out of town, you can even rent my place). After all, if you’re schlepping with a posse of little kids, it’s a great idea to have a temporary home where you can spread out, nap, cook, and make a mess (just clean it up before I get home, okay?).

But if your tot posse is smallish (or older) and you’re looking to fancy up your stay — and are in the market for a splurge — you can’t beat the newly renovated downtown boutique hotel Noelle. The decor is gorgeous but not too fussy (or too breakable for the young ones), and there is an artful shop, restaurant and rooftop bar on-site. Plus: 10-minute coffee delivery to your room every morning — something every parent needs, correct?

For a fun, more affordable, but still luxe option, Nashville’s newly-opened Margaritaville Hotel was just named Best New Hotel of 2020 by USA Today — and it lives up to the hype. Kids will love its tropical vibes (yes, that is a giant flip-flop statue in the lobby) and parents will dig the shockingly good food and wine at the hotel’s JWB Grill (the key lime pie, folks, is not to be missed). Oh, and every family member will flip for the pool. I mean, look.

Where to escape

If you’ve got a car and are willing to drive it for 30 minutes, Franklin, Tennessee, is right outside Nashville — and it’s the cutest darn small town you’ve ever seen. You know Stars Hollow on Gilmore Girls? It’s that, but in the South, complete with town square gazebo and probably one or two Taylor Dooses with a drawl. From the industrial-chic Factory and shops to the Franklin Farmers Market to the occasional Airstream trailer clothing shop, there are weekend delights aplenty in Franklin.

Plus, every September, Franklin’s Harlinsdale Farm welcomes Pilgrimage Music Festival, which is probably the most kid-friendly music fest of all time. Past highlights were the Avett Brothers, Justin Timberlake (presumably JT brought his son, Silas, who sadly did not end up in a baby battle with my son Silas), the Foo Fighters, and more — and the main stage event that featured me trying to pee in a port-o-potty while holding my own Silas up over my head so he wouldn’t touch anything. Ah, music festival life with kids.

Y’all come back now, ya hear?

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